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During the past year, many of the programs presented at the Culinary History Committee meetings have focused on historical figures and their contributions to our understanding for food preparation and nutrition. Although many names such as James Beard and Julia Child are familiar to most of us, we do not readily think of Florence Nightingale or Mary Lincoln as contributors to our culinary history. Ann Hertzler presented a program on Florence Nightingale and her "Directions for cooking by troops in camp and hospital" at the February 2004 Committee meeting. As an extension of this program, several committee members volunteered to present brief reports on other individuals who have contributed to our culinary history. This issue of the Virginia Culinary Thymes will feature James Beard, Julia Child, Mary Lincoln, and Sarah Tyson. Additional reports on famous and not so famous contributors throughout culinary history will be featured in future issues of this newsletter.
Written by Ann Hertzler
James Beard was born in Portland, Oregon. He attended Reed College and later became known as the "Dean of American Cooking" with his teaching, lecturing, demonstrations, and twenty books.
Highlights of his career include:
1930s - began career as a caterer in New York City
1940s - appeared on network television's first cookery program, I Love to Eat. This series opened the door for Julia Child's well known series.
1950s - launched his cooking school in New York City and Seaside, Oregon.,
Written by the Culinary Collection Staff
James Beard learned cooking and entertaining from his mother; trained as an actor and opera singer.
wrote "Corkscrew," a column about spirits, for House & Garden magazine.
dedicated James Beard's American Cookery to his favorite great ladies of the American kitchen noting that "our national cuisine was conceived, developed, penned, and conserved almost entirely by women" and described Eliza Leslie (early 1800s) as the best cook of her time, and labeled posthumously as the "Father of American Cooking." Known for epicurean entertaining and contribution to big, beautiful, hardbound "coffee table" books, and
loved tracking great recipes through history and generations of change
Books authored by James Beard include:
Hors d'Oeuvre and Canapes (1940); Cook It Outdoors (1941); Fowl and Game Cookery (1944); The Fireside Cookbook (1949); Paris Cuisine (with Alexander Watt) (1952);
James Beard's New Fish Cookery (1954); How to Eat Better for Less Money (with Sam Aaron); The Complete Book of Outdoor Cookery (with Helen Evans Brown) (1955);
The James Beard Cookbook (1959); James Beard's Treasure of Outdoor Cooking (1960); James Beard's Menus for Entertaining (1954, 1965); Delights and Prejudice (1964); How to Eat (& Drink) Your Way Through a French (or Italian) Menu (1971);
James Beard's American Cookery (1972); Beard on Bread (1973); Beard on Food (1974); James Beard's Theory & Practice of Good Cooking (1977);
The New James Beard (1981); Beard on Pasta (1983); James Beard's Simple Food (1993); Love and Kisses and a Halo of Truffles, Letters to Helen Evans Brown (1994) and The Armchair James Beard (1999).
The James Beard Foundation was established "to foster the appreciation and development of gastronomy by preserving and promulgating our culinary heritage, and by recognizing and promoting excellence in all aspect of the culinary arts" (The Beard House, 167 West 12th St, NY, NY 10011) http://www.jamesbeard.org/
SOURCE:
DuSablon, Mary Anna: America's Collectible Cookbooks, Ohio University Press, 1994.
Written by By Anne Newton Dumper
Julia Mc Williams Child - Potential Spy, Teacher, Author, Television Personality-Late Bloomer
Julia was born on August 15, 1912 to John and Carolyn (Weston) McWilliams. She met Paul Cushing Child met in Celyon (Sri Lanka) where they both worked for the Office of Strategic Services. They married in 1946. He was a map maker for the government. Julia joined the Office of Strategic Services in hopes of becoming a spy during World War II, however she served as a clerk in Washington, Ceylon, and China.
Julia studied history and later became interested in the culinary arts. After graduating from Katherine Branson School in Ross, CA (1930), she attended Smith College and received Bachelor of Arts in history (1934). She studied culinary arts at: Hillcliffe School of Cookery, Beverly Hills, CA (1945); Cordon Bleu in Paris (probably in 1949); and private study in Paris with Master Chef Max Bugnard an assistant to Escoffier.
During her youth, Julia was considered a tomboy and great prankster. This reputation followed her through her days at Smith College and served her well during her long running cooking show on Boston Public television. This trait not only helped to maintain audience interest, also added humor when things didn't turn out as expected. She would just say: "We had a flop today!"
Growing up, Julia had no interest in food since the household cook held a tight reign on the kitchen. While traveling around the world during her tenure with the Office of Strategic Services, she learned about Chinese cuisine. After the war while living in Beverly Hills, she developed an ardent interest in cooking, but was far from an expert, according to husband. In 1948 Paul was assigned to the Embassy in Paris and he introduced his wife to French cuisine. Paul lived in Paris in the 1920's and knew its wines, and restaurants. He took Julia to the best restaurants and she became entranced with the food. She entered Cordon Bleu School and then studied with privately. Several French women who were also interesting in food invited Julia to help them write a French cookbook for the American kitchen. Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle needed an English speaking person for the translation. Julia suggested that they start a school instead of writing a book. Within three days, the women began offering classes as the des Trois Gourmandes in the Childs' apartment. The school has been in continuous operation ever since under the leadership of the two French ladies. When Paul was transferred to other cities in Europe Julia started branches of the school in each of the towns they were assigned. The first cook book the three women wrote was published in 1958 by Alfred A. Knopf of New York.
The French Chef cooking program had a unusual beginning. Julia returned to the United States after some six years in Paris, and being away from the United States for thirteen years. Paul Child wanted to retire after a 20 year career in the United States Information Agency. They settled in Cambridge MA because Julia believed a college community would give them an opportunity to meet interesting people. Paul planned to write, paint, and photograph while Julia cooked, wrote, and taught. A friend from Paris was working at WBGH (the Boston Public TV station) and suggested that Julia be interviewed for the station's ïI've Been Reading" a book review program with the hopes that the sales Mastering the Art of French Cooking would increase. Julia agreed came to the interview with some egg whites and a great copper bowl with the intention of making an omelet during the program. As the interviewer and Julia chatted, Julia whisked the eggs and talked about her cook books and life in Paris. The mail flooded the TV station and a show The French Chef cooking show was born. The premise of the program was to take the mystery and "folderol" out of French cooking. The show ran for 9 years and received Two awards for merit from the French Government including the prestigious National Order of Merit (1976) and the Peabody Award (1965) and an Emmy (1966). When asked how she would like to be remembered, she told Jack Thomas of the Boston Globe the following: "Julia Child encouraged home cooking and the pleasure of food. She made it a respectable hobby, something fun, and creative not drudgery."
Recommendations on cooking:
Do things that are simple when learning to cook.
Learn the basics and understand what you are doing so cooking is easier, faster and more enjoyable.
Timing is a guide, cooking is pleasurable tactile. Touch foods with a clean finger to determine doneness.
Look at the meat juices as they run when the muscle is pierced with a knife: red in color not done, clear color indicate doneness.
For the busy person, cook in stages:
1. beef for stew can be browned while eating breakfast
2. simmer the beef in wine with aromatic vegetables during another meal
3. re-warm the next day or when needed. Now you have time for the accompaniments You have a home cooked meal with time to relax and enjoy!
One of the secrets of cooking is to correct things as you go along and if that is not possible bear with it.
Julia's philosophy: "Never lose sight of the beautifully conceived meal. It is the pleasures of the table depict food as an art form, as a delightful part of civilized life."
Julia Child is the author of an extensive list of cook books. A selected list includes:
Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume I with Simone Beck and Louisette Bertholle (1961);
The French Chef Cookbook with Simone Beck (1968);
Mastering the Art of French Cooking: Volume II (1970 revised 1983);
Julia Child's Kitchen with E. S. Yntema (1975);
Julia Child and Company with E. S. Yntema (1978);
Julia Child and More Company (1979);
The Way to Cook (1989);
Cooking at Home with Master Chefs with Nancy Verde Barr (1993);
In Julia's Kitchen with Master Chefs
Julia Child's cookbooks have a unique organization. Recipes are arranged according to type of food and technique with ample cross referencing. For example, all pork recipes are not together, but pork chops and lamb chops recipes are together as they can be prepared in the same way. This is true of vegetables as well. For each technique there is a master (basic) recipe that spells out the necessary details and then variations follow demonstrating how to put theory into practice.
SOURCE:
Child, Julia. The Way to Cook. New York, Alfred A. Knopf Co 1989
Child, Julia. The French Chef Cookbook. New York, Alfred A. Knopf Co 1961
Women in the World, Volume 3, pages 676 - 677
Current Biography, pages 66 - 69
Written by Ann Hertzler
Mary J. Lincoln (1844-1921) graduated from Wheaton seminary in Massachusetts in 1864. She married David Lincoln in 1865. Mary Lincoln was a noted writer and lecturer on household science and other highlight of her career include: 1879-1885 - principal Boston School of Cookery; 1893- 1903 - culinary editor for American Kitchen magazine. Mrs. Lincoln was an authority on food value and wrote for a large syndicate of newspapers.
Mary Johnson (Bailey) Lincoln was hired by Maria Parloa for the Boston Cooking School of the Woman's Education Association. She was the first to list ingredients and amounts at the head of the recipe and to designate level measurements. In addition to her many books and columns, Mrs. Lincoln was known for her teaching at the Boston Cooking School. She also traveled extensively and lectured on domestic science and home economics.
Examples from her cookbooks of pertinent "cooking" information:
The Boston Cook Book (1883);
The Boston Cooking School Cook Book (1884), (reprint with a new introduction by Janice Bluestein Longone*, 1996);
Peerless Cook Book (1886);
Carving and Serving (1886);
The Boston School Kitchen Text Book (1888);
What to Have for Luncheon (1904);
School Kitchen Text-Book (1915).
Below are some examples of recipes and directions by Mary Lincoln:
Angel Cake (before the advent of the mechanical or electrical mixer).
One cup of flour, measured after one sifting, and then mixed with one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and sifted four times.
Beat the whites of eleven eggs, with a wire beater or perforated spoon, until stiff and flaky.
Add one cup and a half of fine granulated sugar, and beat again
Add one teaspoonful of vanilla or almond, then mix in the flour quickly and lightly.
Line the bottom and funnel of a cake pan with paper not greased
Pour in the mixture, and bake about forty minutes.
When done, loosen the cake around the edge, and turn out at once.
Some persons have been more successful with this cake by mixing the sugar with the flour and cream of tartar, and adding all at once to the beaten egg.
(DuSablon, Mary Anna. America's Collectible Cookbooks, Ohio University Press, 1994.)
Ham and Bacon Ham for broiling
Should be cut very thin, and bacon should not be more than one-fourth inch thick; better one-eighth.
Cook in broiler, turning often.
Or lay broiler over a pan and cook in oven.
Or, cook bacon in a hot pan over the fire, turning often and serve when crisp.
Drain well.
Fried ham is improved by slow cooking, first, in water in the spider for half and hour, then let water boil out and the ham cook till fat is browned.
(Home Helps - A Pure Food Cook Book - Recipes by Mrs. Mary J. Lincoln, Mrs. Sarah Tyson Rorer, Mrs. Helen Armstrong, Lida Ames Willis, Marion Harland, The N.K. Fairbank Company, 1910, p 34)
Written by Jean Robbins
Sarah was born in Richboro, Bucks County, PA at the home of her grandparents. Sarah was educated at NY State's East Aurora Academy and after her marriage she attended lectures at the Woman's Medical College in Philadelphia. She was married to William Albert Rorer (later the marriage ended in separation). Her children were William Albert Rorer and James Birch Rorer. The family lived in Colebrook, PA and later moved to Philadelphia.
Highlights of her life:
Teacher of domestic science
Principal of the Philadelphia School of Cooking
Lecturer on Food in Health and Disease
Author and Editor for 53 years
Editor and partial owner of Table Talk magazine, 1886-1892
Editor of Household News, 1893-1897
Author on staff of Ladies Home Journal, 1897-1911
Devoted time to writing and lecturing; authored approximately 54 books
After moving to Philadelphia, "Sallie" enrolled in a cooking class, 1879, for members of the New Century Club and became interested in cooking and earned the reputation as "the best student in the class". Later a Committee from the Club approached her to teach the class and also to lecture at the Woman's Medical College and the Woman's Hospital. She prepared herself by practicing appropriate recipes; she read to acquaint herself with the chemistry of foods and the reasons for doing culinary tasks in a certain way. For relevant information, she turned to "Food and Feeding" by Sir Henry Thompson, who wrote on balance of foods, and to "Food for the Invalid" by J. Milner Fothergill, who wrote on specific diets for specific diseases. Doctors were fascinated with her lectures. To continue to prepare herself she attended lectures in chemistry, anatomy, physiology, and hygiene at the Woman's Medical College.
As more people learned of Sallie's teaching, there were more requests for her services; some of these included: the Franklin Institute, the House of Refuge (for wayward children), evening classes for working girls and women, classes for middle-income women and children, private cooking lessons for the wealthy, private lessons in her home for a small number of doctors, classes at a Finishing School (emphasizing the connection between cooking and chemistry. In 1882, a company requested that she test and write a booklet on "How to use Olive Butter". She also worked with the Bedford Street Mission to give classes in neighborhoods on basic cooking, economical shopping, and elimination of waste of food; she reached many ethnic groups.
Throughout these years, the Philadelphia Cooking School continued to expand. The School started at 1518 Chestnut Street (a prominent business street), moved to larger quarters at 1525 Chestnut Street, later moved to 1617 Chestnut Street, and finally moved to 1715 Chestnut Street. By 1901, 5000 students had been trained by the Philadelphia Cooking School.
As Mrs. Rorer's reputation grew, a delegation of Philadelphia's best known physicians approached her and requested organization of a diet kitchen to prepare and deliver to the hotels special diet food that the doctors ordered for patients from out of town; and to consult the patient for an appropriate and acceptable diet.
All of this seemed to be the beginning of Academic Dietetics. Requests for a detailed course embracing all facets of cooking and nutrition designed for women who were interested in becoming cooking teachers. In Oct. 6, 1890, she added to her instruction a few outside experts to teach digestion and hygiene, chemistry, food adulteration and food analysis, and home and food sanitation. The students now included these subjects and courses on food as it related to health and disease, accounting, marketing, and practice teaching. Later physiology and biology were added to the curriculum.
By 1893, a new field of employment had openedÑhospital dietetics. The Presbyterian Hospital organized a diet kitchen and hired Martha Byerly, 1892 graduate of the Philadelphia Cooking School. Martha's title was Superintendent of Diet.
In 1899, a series of conferences were held at Lake Placid, NY, to discuss the problems, progress, and future of home economics. Ten conferences were held between 1899 and 1908 and culminated in the founding of the American Home Economics Association. At least 10 of the founders were graduates of the Philadelphia Cooking School. When the PA Dietetics Association was founded in 1933, Mrs. Sarah Rorer and Martha Byerly were made honorary members. In 1937 Mrs. Rorer spoke to the PA Dietetics Association about the development of Dietetics in hospitals beginning with her work in Philadelphia fifty years from this date.
Indeed Mrs. Rorer can qualify as the first Dietitian and her student Martha Byerly, the first hospital dietitian. History shows that Mrs. Rorer was a pioneer for both the American Home Economics Association and the American Dietetics Association.
Authored the following titles:
*Mrs. Rorer's Philadelphia Cook Book (1886) The author presented each class of foods and discussed the chemistry of cooking these foods. The book sold for $1.75
Bread and Bread Making (1899)
Mrs. Rorer's Brand New Salads (1915)
Mrs. Rorer's Cakes, Icings and Fillings (1905)
Canning and Preserving (1887, 1912)
Colonial Recipes (1894)
Dainties (1894, 1904, 1912)
*Mrs. Rorer's Diet for the Sick (1914)
Mrs. Rorer's Every Day Menu Book (1905)
Fifteen New Ways for Oysters (1894)
Mrs. Rorer's Good Cooking (1898)
My Best 250 Recipes (1907)
Mrs. Rorer's New Cook Book (1902)
*These titles are in the Peacock-Harper Collection)
Sources of information:
"A Guide to Collecting Cookbooks" by Colonel Bob Allen
"America's Collectible Cookbooks" by Mary Anna DuSablon
"Sarah Tyson Rorer" by Emma Seifrit Weigley, Philadelphia; The American Philosophical Society, 1977.
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